The granite coves and pink-tinged sand of the Costa Smeralda, from Porto Cervo to Capriccioli and Liscia Ruja, each with up-to-date sea conditions so you can choose where to go today.
The Costa Smeralda is the stretch of coast in the municipality of Arzachena, in Gallura, around Porto Cervo: a sequence of coves set into the granite, with pale sand tinged with pink and shallow water that shifts from green to turquoise. The name and most of the resorts come from the tourism project launched by Prince Aga Khan in the 1960s.
The coast is very jagged, and that is an advantage: when one side catches the wind, the other side of a headland almost always offers a sheltered cove. Below are the most beautiful public beaches, each with today's sea conditions: tap a row to open the full card with waves, wind and water temperature.
The signature coves: Principe, Romazzino and Liscia Ruja
These are the beaches that made the Costa Smeralda famous: very pale sand, smooth granite and clear water, each with a different exposure to the wind.
A wide arc of very fine white sand divided by granite rocks, at the foot of the Mediterranean scrub. It can only be reached on foot, about ten minutes from the car park. It faces southeast, so it is at its best when the wind blows from the west.
White, grainy sand and crystal-clear water in green and blue shades. It is one of the few coves sheltered from the mistral, the prevailing northwesterly wind, which is why it holds up well even on windy days.
Known as Long Beach, it is the longest on the Costa Smeralda: over half a kilometre of medium-grained sand with pink tones. The seabed is shallow near the shore and then slopes down; the scrub behind offers a little shelter.
Capriccioli and the Pevero beaches
The stretch between Romazzino and the Pevero gulf gathers some of the beaches most loved by families: fine sand, shallow seabeds and coves sheltered on different sides.
Two beaches divided by an isthmus of smooth granite rocks, pink and amber. Having two sides facing opposite directions is their strength: when one catches the wind, the other stays sheltered, so there is almost always a good side to settle on.
Two crescent bays south of Porto Cervo, with fine white sand and a shallow, sandy seabed. The Grande Pevero is sheltered from southerly winds, a good choice in a scirocco; the Piccolo Pevero stays protected from the west and south and is handy with children.
Golden sand mixed with shell fragments and pink quartz, with clear water. The dense vegetation behind it protects it from northerly winds.
Around Porto Cervo: Cala Granu and Baja Sardinia
A small bay of fine white sand and a sandy seabed, a few minutes from Porto Cervo: it is reached by a short path. Tucked away and sheltered, it is handy for a quick stop.
Further north, a pale-sand beach in a sheltered bay at the centre of the resort of the same name: unlike the isolated coves, here services are close at hand.
When the sea is calm on the Costa Smeralda
The prevailing wind in Sardinia is the mistral, from the northwest. The Costa Smeralda, mostly facing northeast and east, is often protected from it, but it can pick up with easterly winds (the levante) and from the southeast (the scirocco). The practical rule: with a mistral, head for the coves sheltered to the north such as Romazzino; when the wind blows from the south or southeast, switch sides and skip the beaches exposed in that direction, like the Principe. MareCalmo takes into account each beach's exposure to wind and waves, so you can see at a glance where the sea is calmest today.
Practical tips
- Go early. In the morning the sea is usually calmer, before the breeze picks up, and parking is easier to find.
- Water shoes help. Between one cove and the next you often walk on granite and smooth, sometimes slippery rocks.
- Respect the scrub and dunes. These are fragile habitats: stay on the paths and leave no litter.
- Check flags and ordinances. The Harbour Master's notices always come before the forecast.
Frequently asked questions
Which is the most beautiful beach on the Costa Smeralda?
Spiaggia del Principe and Liscia Ruja are among the most famous, but there is no single most beautiful beach: there is the most beautiful one today. With the right wind a postcard cove is perfect; with the wind against it, it turns murky and gusty. That is why it is worth checking the sea conditions before you set off.
Are the Costa Smeralda beaches free?
Yes, the beaches are public and open to everyone. Many have wide free stretches and are reached on foot; in summer the car parks are generally paid and there are often no facilities on site.
When is the sea calmest?
Usually early in the morning and, in a mistral, on the coves sheltered to the north. The calm sea today page shows you in real time where to find it now.
